Tuesday, May 30, 2006

Epic Train Trip VI - The Epic Disappointment

For years my father had been telling me that I had to see Wieliczka, the enourmous salt mine outside of Kraków that dates back to the middle ages. In its 300km of tunnels are underground lakes, rivers, chapels, ballrooms, and numerous statues, all made from salt. An entire city built from salt, it is listed on UNESCO's original list of 12 world heritage sites.

My expectations were high, as were the prices to get in. 65 złoty, bargained down by me to 30 by insisting that Craig and I were students and had forgotten our ID at home. The cashier believed I was under 25, but didn't believe Craig was. But unfortunately, this acknowledgment of my boyish good looks was the highlight of my trip to Wieliczka. I had expected too much, and short of finding a Morlock, the underground monsters from H.G. Wells' 'The Time Machine', I could only be disappointed. Although what I saw was unique in this world and amazing, I could only think of how tired my feet were and how bored I was.

Once again in my life, the theme of hype ruining substance proved true.

So for all of you, if you're ever in Kraków, pop into the salt mine. It's a real piece of shit. Trust me.


Bitch. He's been on his knee now for 600 years. If you don't know for sure now, you'll never know.


Jesus Christ!

Deeper and deeper in Morlock territory. The tour was 2 hours, and covered 2km of the 250km of tunnels and paths in Wieliczka.

If you are extremely rich and eccentric, you can have your wedding in this enourmous underground hal. Everything is made from salt, even the chandeliers are made from salt crystals. It's these small touches that keep us super-rich satisfied.


Well, they weren't quite Morlocks, but at least I got a couple of notches into my bedpost.




Sloppy seconds for Craig. This man has no sense of shame.

Wednesday, May 24, 2006

Epic Train Trip V - The Epic Nun

(enjoy this one, it's reserved my seat in hell)
Do the math:
(a) It's a very catholic country, full of nuns.
(b) Ice cream is delicious and available everywhere.
(c) Poland is crowded, so most people here are irritable, stressed and visibly upset.

Therefore, the Drake-Roszkowski equation states that a+b+c= 1 surly, overweight, ice cream eating nun and the probability of me finding her is absolutely certain, as long as I stay in (c)Crowded areas high in (a)Nun and (b)Ice cream. What better place than historic Wawel castle in the Jewel of Poland, Krakow, which we had just happened to return to after our brief stop in Katowice...

What's this? What better omen could there be? Saint Tomasz street? Time for a quick prayer! "Please god, let her be surly, let her mood be much colder than the ice cream she's so sexily licking"

Wawel castle. We're close, I can feel it. High in ice cream, nun and surly people!
There she is! There she is....no wait...that's a surly Nunn eating ice cream. So close!

What!?! Who's that trying to hide in a crowd of children!? She's big alright! And that's ice-cream she's licking! But is she surly?!?!?!?!?! Is she!?!??!?!?!



Ouch! What's this? My camera has actually frosted over...Oh! She's surly! And she's making an evil, one squinting eye face. You don't see those very often outside of Hollywood. Thank you, St. Tomasz, patron saint of me! Dreams do come true, as long as they're mediocre enough...

Having fulfilled yet another one of my life's ambitions here in Poland, we decided to drop this dump called Krakow, and head out to Nowa Huta, a communist suburb developed by the Russians to undermine Krakow's cultural and religious importance. The literal translation of this suburb, Nowa Huta? New Steelworks. My hope: that it would be so dreary, so communist, so grey, that my colour photo would actually come out black and white...


Right off the tram, things were looking hopeful. "Kill the Jews" in the foreground, a nuclear power plant in the background. Exciting! Off to find the least colourful part of Nowa Huta...

Alas. I had actually asked two old drunks in the park where the most communist part of Nowa Huta was and they said they we're standing in it. Neither grey, nor ugly, Nowa Huta was full of pretty little courtyards and children happily playing. What kind of communist dream is this. Bullshit!

Tuesday, May 23, 2006

Epic Train Trip IV - The Epic Contrast

With no place to sleep, and the rain coming down hard in Warsaw after I had angered the Chinese Gods, we hopped on a train to Toruń. With no expectations, we were astonished to discover how beautiful this walled medieval town actually was. Despite the terrible weather, our short stay in Toruń left us charmed, and inevitably ready for the contrast of our next destination: KATOWICE.

Ask any Pole, which is the ugliest place in this country, and inevitably, the answer will be KATOWICE. But come on, with 8 months of being warned this place would be hideous, could it really be that bad? Could it really live down to it's expecations?? And more importantly, in a place of such despair, would I find my surly, overweight, ice cream eating nun?

Toruń. You charmed the pants off me. Oh, so this is what a Polish town looks like when it wasn't bombed to rubble by the Nazis and Russians.
The leaning tower of Toruń.










The balloonless hot-air balloon(pictured), along with the wingless plane and the boardless skateboard are three of the least effective modes of transport known to man.
Fireworks over an ancient castle. Boom, Boom Boom, I love Toruń! I can never come back, because I will only be dissapointed when next time the city doesn't explode and light up in beautiful colours for me.


From fireworks to steelworks. Katowice, I arrived looking 28, and an hour later left looking 34 and feeling 62. And to make things worse, still no nun.

Epic Train Trip III: The Epic Protest

Well, well, well. What's this? The Chinese embassy? Well, Tomek has a bladder and brain full of beer, a pen, and a piece of paper. So why not take this opportunity to deliver a protest straight to Chinese soil! Let's teach these guys a lesson on violations of human rights and moral decency, or at least violations of decency! But for all my protesting, would win the right to get a glimpse of a surly, overweight, ice cream eating nun?
















And while we're in a protesting mood, let's free ovens too!

Tuesday, May 16, 2006

Epic Train Trip II - The Epic Hat

Morale was low. We were tired. The weather was terrible. I had yet to find an overweight, surly ice cream eating nun.

Yes, it was day 2 of Epic Train Trip and I was ready to call it quits. Suddenly, to the rescue, came my wonderful Polish aunt and the power of Polish hospitality and beer. Although she hadn't seen me in 20 years, she called me little Tomchu right away and pampered me and fed me rejuvinating magic bbq. Warm slippers and a tempermental toy poodle in their comfortable home outside of Warsaw were the small details that made me feel like I was at home in Caledon again.

Although it was cold and raining that night, the next day was May 1st, and my aunt assured us that there is an ongoing agreement between god and the communists that every May 1st, Labour Day, the weather would be nice until at least 1pm. Sure enough, we awoke to sunshine the next morning and my aunt took us to an enormous Russian market, full of shady characters selling pepper spray, cigarettes and Nazi paraphanelia, and bought me the hat that would transform our trip. When I put it on, the fun loving Russian proletariat in me that was always hiding from the capitalists, finally had the courage to come out...

Now sunny and warm, suddenly Warsaw's rebuilt old town didn't make me want to hang myself.









With the power of my new hat, I took a shot at busking. A man was playing the Titanic theme on pan flutes in the main square and I one upped his gay new age music with my interperative dance.


A family filming me with an enormous 1980's over the shoulder video camera forced one of their frightened children to put 5 zloty in my hat. I can only imagine that endless days of laughter they and their friends are getting right now on their Betamax in rural Belarusestonia.



Hey Laurence. How many giant seagulls can you fit on your dick? What? You never tried? Oh!? You never tried?! You're telling me you never measured your dick in giant perched seagulls? Whatever. Hey, Jess, check this guy out, he couldn't even fit a canary on his dick...oh yeah.

Perving on some perverted old men. How does it feel now, you sick bastards?

Craig taking a pit stop to 'knock one off' before going to the train station.

Look! Hahaha. A funny colored little yellow man wearing a funny hat. Can you believe it? His mother sure couldn't!


A run down pre-war building that we decided to explore. The only problem was a man was barring the entrance with a 2 by 4 and yelling at me that he won't let me in. I decided that we needed the mace that I had bought earlier that day at the Russian Market to be safe. But what if it was fake? What if the mace didn't really work? Hmmm.....

Oh, drunk Tomek. It works!



Not only did the mace burn and hurt me, it showed us all how I will look in ten years.

















Our final destination this day. The last remaining piece of the wall that surrounded the Jewish Ghetto. 1 1/2 days of looking, finally down a side street, buzzed into an apartment complex, into the courtyard, and behind the dumpster, there it lay. This is the best bit of sight seeing I've ever experienced in my life. It was cool, man!

Monday, May 08, 2006

Epic Train Trip I

1,432 - km covered on the trip
4 Number of times we suddenly found ourselves on a John Paul II street
17.4 - Length of Laurence's penis in cm
800 - Number of steps descended into the Wieliczka Salt Mine
1 - Number of times that I was maced by Craig
0 - Number of times I changed my underwear
26 - Number of times we peed outside to save 1 złoty
178 - Estimated weight in kg of Wawel's fattest nun
8 - Number of times that I woke up on the train to find Craig staring at me lustfully

This past long weekend, Polish rail offered an umlimited ticket for 60 złoty (20 dollars), valid for all of Poland for 6 days. Craig and I decided to take advantage of it, sleeping on night trains to save money on hotels, and paying a surprise visit to my family in Warsaw that I last saw when I was 9 years old. Yes, when travelling and in need of a place to stay, that aunt of an aunt of a cousin of a friend is suddenly your 'Ciocia'. On this trip I had only one goal. To find an extremely overweight, surly nun eating an ice cream. My ultimate sexual fantasty.

Here are some highlights from journey 1 - Wrocław to Warszawa.

Craig returning to Gliwice, his former home town in Poland, an industrial shithole with absolutely nothing to do. Like a Jew returning to Auschwitz, he was overwhelmed by the memories, but his of endless boredom and existential angst. Smile Craig, you made it out. How many others didn't...

The palace of culture and science. Your first view from the train station. Communist architecture at its finest. A gift from Stalin to Poland, many people want to tear it down. In it's basement levels are 40 feral cats whose job it is to keep the palace mouse free.

Our 5 hour stop in Kraków, which was our original goal. It was so full of English speaking tourists that we got out right away and took a night train to Warsaw...but not before flipping Police Van G76 over. Fuck you, G76!


Civilization at last. No more damned pierogi, no more bigos, no more barszcz. I'm in the big cosmopolitan city now. I can finally dig my teeth into a delicious "30cm Sandwicz"

Finally caught without a valid ticket on a tram in Poland. It took 8 months though. The fine was 86 złoty, and only later did everyone tell me that I should have given them a 20 złoty bribe to buy themselves some beer and leave us alone. Everyone told us this, like it was knowledge we should have been born with. Even an 300lb nun would have bribed these guys.


Gay.









But gayer.

Monument to the soldiers who died in the Warsaw Uprising. I was especially intrigued by the detail on the first soldier's leg so I had a closer look.
On closer inspection, I learned this was the monument to nerdy chicken shits who didn't want to Uprise, and were happy to stay in the ghetto and play Scrabble with Jews.










The special, childlike racism that only a country completely devoid of blacks can have. Who could name a coffee shop 'Little Blacky?' and have a big lipped African as their logo. No, not someone who hates blacks. No way. Only someone who has never seen one and classifies them with other fabled curiousities such as elves, hobbits, unicorns and Chinese people.


"One large black coffee please, Bambo."
"(click) (click) (kung!) Yessum!"

Don't be outdone convenience store! You got negros too!

Thursday, May 04, 2006

Smingus Dingus 2006

The day I dreamed of for so long, my first Smingus Dingus in Poland. For years, I have been woken up on Easter Monday by my dad soaking me with cold water and yelling Smingus Dingus! as he ran out the door. For some reason unknown to me, Easter Monday is an official over the top water fight in Poland that lasts until noon that day. My entire life, regailed by my father with stories of how crazy it always was in Poland, I woke up early that morning to see if it was true. Would the years of hype live up to this day? Will the climate of modern times have tempered down this once crazy day like they have to so many other things?

My day started off with soaking Marlena, Craig (who I had promised not to soak the day before) and his sister visiting from England, who didn't believe this holiday existed until she was soaking wet. It was my obligation to soak every girl, because any girl left dry will, according to legend, die alone.

Next Craig and I went out on the balcony to scan the area. I was overjoyed to see gangs of kids, walking around with buckets and waterguns, popping out from behind cars, and generally roaming the streets like packs of rats. It was a war zone. As the gangs roamed, windows would suddenly open up high in apartments buildings and buckets of water would come crashing down on their victims, with an adult laughing from the window as the kids cursed in Polish and regrouped. Entire gangs of up to ten kids, were looking to soak any non adult. This is considered good ettiquete- babcias and dziadeks are totally off limits. Invalids and the homeless are considered a grey area.
It was like some sort of post apocalyptic horror, Escape from New York meets Lord of the Flies meets white water rafting. These monsters were ruling the streets and I was scared to go down. Marlena told me that in the villages, they chase you into your home and even the shortest trip outside means getting soaked. We nailed a few kids from our balcony, only to hear them calling us fags and losers in Polish and taunting us to come down. I couldn't resist.

At this point, Marlena, already soaked by us, left for her train home and Craig and I headed down to try to drown some children. Craig's sister stayed home and locked herself in the bathroom to man the fort. (chicken shit)

What's important to keep in mind at this point, is that this holiday is like Halloween. Only kids are really allowed to participate, and us walking around the streets could be likened to a 28 year old 'kid' smelling of cigarettes that comes trick or treating to your house, with a 'Scream' mask tied around his neck, asking in a deep voice if you have any schnapps. For kids it's fun, but any adult seeing us running the streets considered us pathetic.
We came back after 20 minutes soaked but looking for more. Marlena returned wetter than ever at this point, saying that a group of bad teenagers were throwing brown river water at everybody at the tram stop, including babcias, and then afterwards began to rock the tram back and forth like in a riot. She raced back to the safety of my arms as quickly as possible.

We hit the streets, all of us, looking for more action. We came across a group of 'bad kids', that were older and looked more like ogres than children and I swear to you, that one of them was 11 years old but had a full moustache. These Chernobyl kids weren't backing down, and I knew we were in trouble when I was dumping water on them from the balcony and one little pervert just stood there asking for more and moaning, like he was getting turned on.

Yes, this was our biggest mistake, not bullying children under 10 years old, because when eventually we had enough, these bad kids got into our building. They then deduced which apartment was ours and began knocking on our door, gently and politely at first, then pounding. We lay there, in complete silence, looking at each other unsure of what to do, feeling helpess, trying not to breathe, not to make a sound, as they knocked and asked "Hello? Anybody home?...ANYBODY HOME!?!?!'. My heart was pounding, and I knew it was stupid, but I quickly opened the door and soaked one of them and then locked the door again. That's when enourmous amounts of water began to pour under the door, soaking our entire corridor and bathroom. As they walked away down the street, they kept laughing and pointing at us, asking if our door was wet. Yes, now 28 years old, bigger, but still unable to grow a moustache, a group of bad ass 11 year olds with facial hair had once again humiliated me. Some things never change.

Thank you Smingus Dingus 2006! You were one of the rare times in life that substance matched the hype.


Me soaking the Pope moments before he crushed me with his giant hand. Who did you get this year?